On our most recent trip to Tuscany we had a very special visit with a very special woman by the name of Pamela Sheldon Johns. A California native and well established chef and author whose recipes and stories have appeared in Cooking Light, Willams-Sonoma cookbooks, and several cookbooks of her own Pamela moved to Montepulciano about 10 years ago with her family and opened a bed and breakfast. She now offers cooking workshops all around Italy, from the Cinque Terre to Sicily and even offers private cooking classes from her home. The latter is what we had the pleasure of experiencing.

Our afternoon consisted of rolling picci pasta (my absolute favorite) on her kitchen table with a glass of prosecco and group of mother and daughters spending the week at the bed and breakfast. Our ingredients included Pamela’s homemade olive oil as well as herbs and vegetables from her garden in the backyard. All the while, her husband quietly prepared a beautiful four-course lunch that had been completely handmade by the group of women earlier that day. Lunch was served out on the terrace. Between the view of the countryside and the presentation of each course, the meal was a sensory circus.

One key character at the lunch table that I have not yet mentioned is Pamela’s adopted Grandfather, Viro. Though he spoke no English he somehow managed to become a vital part of this culinary affair.  I don’t quite know how to explain it. The old, grey Italian man never failed to keep a smile on his face and laugh along with an English-speaking group of Americans.

In fact, Pamela dedicated a section to Viro in her newest book, “Cucina Povera: Tuscan Peasant Cooking.” She was kind enough to let us preview the drafted copy that she has been working on over the past couple years which will be released in September. This inspiring book includes Pamela’s recipes but more importantly tells the story of her life in Tuscany as well as the dozens of unheard stories of the region. More than a wealth of culinary knowledge, Pamela shares her cultural insight in this unique new book.

Eventually the group of women set off on a shopping excursion within the city walls of Montepulciano (our favorite little shopping hub) and we chatted with Pamela over cappuccinos. We spoke about the challenges and pleasures of working in such a different culture.  Though she is a decade ahead of us our experiences are similar. Pamela has been blessed with much success, The New York Times rated her in the top 10 travel guides in the world (only 2 in Tuscany). However trials and tribulations were no stranger to her journey.

Pamela, Alaia, Courtney "Johnny" Johns, and Sugar; Photo credit: Andrea Wyner

Suddenly Pamela’s 14-year-old daughter arrived home from school. She was an endearing upbeat girl who almost bounced into the room. She skipped straight to her mothers lap to greet her and spoke the words that stunned me, “Ma, I need a pause. Can I please have McDonalds today?” Suddenly this home didn’t seem so different from an American one. Of course, the teenager prefers fast food to a home cooked meal prepared by a world-class chef. Some things remain the same no matter what country you are in.

Nevertheless, Pamela’s villa makes for the perfect stop on any girls trip.You will not find a more genuine Tuscan experience than one occurring within an authentic Italian home. An afternoon at Pamela’s is nothing short of an extraordinary meal and experience yet still preserves the simplistic sentiment of living and dining in Tuscany.

Bravo, Pamela!

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